Glossary of Sewing Terminology

Armscye: The arm opening on a bodice to which the sleeve is attached; also known as an armhole.

Backstitch: A stitch in which the thread is doubled back on the preceding stitches. Backstitching is used to secure the beginning and end of a stitch line.

Baste: Temporary long running stitches, made by either hand or machine, that holds the fabric in place before permanent stitches are applied.

Band: A strip of fabric varying in size, typically sewn in a loop and folded in half, used to finish the edge of a neckline, armscye, sleeve, waist, hem, etc...

Bias: The 45° angle that intersects the warp (length of grain) and the weft (cross-grain) of a woven fabric. Fabric cut on the bias, such as binding, offers more flexibility making it easier to go around curves.

Bias Tape: Strips of fabric cut on a 45° angle to the straight grain. Pre-made woven bias tape can be purchased but it is quite simple to cut and make yourself.

Binding: A strip of fabric used to bind or cover edges. Binding for woven garments must be cut on the bias.

Casing: A tunnel of fabric consisting of two layers, through which a drawstring or elastic can be threaded.

Clip the Curves: The process of removing small triangular pieces of fabric to allow a seam to lay flat along a concave curve (rounded inward like the inside of a bowl) when turned right side out. For a convex curve (curves outward like a ball), small slits are made along a curve so it is allowed to spread apart when turned right side.

Cross-grain: The threads of woven fabric that run perpendicular to the selvage.

Dart: A wedge-shaped fold in the fabric used to shape garments to the body.

Cross-grain: The threads of woven fabric that run perpendicular to the selvage.

Ease: The difference between the body measurements and the finished garment measurements. Style and wearing ease will vary from garment to garment. If the finished garment is bigger than the body measurements it has positive ease, which is typically found in woven garments. If the garment is smaller than the body measurements, it has negative ease which it typically found in knit garments. Not all patterns will list the amount of ease. If a pattern does not list the intended ease, it can be easily calculated by comparing the body measurements to the finished measurements.

Edge-stitch: An edge-stitch is a stitch that runs close to the edge of a fabric. It is often used to finish seams or hems, or to create decorative effects.

Facing: A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish the raw edges of a garment. It is often used in areas where a clean finish is desired such as the neckline, armscye, hems, etc...

Finger press: A method of temporarily flattening a seam using the heat from your fingers.

Finishing the Seam: Trim the seam allowance and finish the edge with a serger, an overcast stitch or a zigzag stitch. Pinking shears can also be used in a pinch. Alternatively, different techniques like Hong Kong or French seams can be used.

French Seam: A finished seam in which the seam allowance is encased by the seam.

Gathering Stitch: A gathering stitch is a long, loose stitch used to gather fabric. With the machine set on the longest stitch length, sew a line of straight stitches, leaving long thread tails at the beginning and end of the stitch line. Gently pull on one thread at each end and gather the fabric between. For best results, sew parallel gathering stitches 1/8” or 0.3 cm away from the inside of the intended finished seam line and 1/4” or 0.6 cm away from the outside of the intended finished seam line. The outside line of gathering stitches will be removed on completion of the garment.

Grain: The grain refers to the direction of the threads in woven fabric, either lengthwise or crosswise. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric, while the crosswise grain runs perpendicular to it.

Hem: The hem is the finished edge of a garment that is folded over and sewn in place. It helps to prevent fraying and gives the garment a polished look.

Hem Allowance: Hem allowance is the distance between the cutting line and the finished hemline. Hem allowances vary depending on the garment style and hem technique. Some patterns will list the hem allowance on the pattern pieces. This is helpful when making adjustments to suit your personal preferences.

Horsehair Braid: A net-like ribbon woven on the bias with synthetic threads. It is stretchy and takes curves easily. Often used to add support to a hem.

Hong Kong Seams: A bias-bound edge seam finish.

Inseam: The vertical seams on pants between the legs.

Interfacing: A lining used to add structure to a garment. Interfacing varies in weight and stiffness. It is often used in collars, cuffs, and other areas that need extra support.

Invisible Stitch: Made at 1/8” or 0.3 cm intervals through the side fold of the turn-under seam allowance. This technique hides the stitch in the fold along the edge. This stitch is commonly used to enclose the waist seam without a visible stitch.

Knit Fabric: A textile that results from knitting, the process of inter-looping of yarns. It is distinct from woven fabric in that it is stretchy and quite flexible. Knit fabric is typically used in form fitting garments as well as t-shirts, hoodies, sweaters, etc...

Lining: A lining is a layer of fabric on the inside of a garment that provides a finished look and added comfort. It can also help to protect delicate fabrics from sweat and oils.

Main: The main fabric refers to the primary fabric used on the outside of a garment.

Muslin: 1. Unbleached cotton fabric. 2. Term used by sewists to describe a test garment that checks fit and style.

Nest the Seams: Nesting seams means aligning two seams and facing the seam allowances in opposite directions before sewing. Nesting ensures perfectly matched seams and results in less overall bulk.

Notch: Pattern marks shaped like diamonds or triangles that are printed on the cutting line of a pattern to indicate where the seams should meet, where gathering starts and stops, etc... Notches can also be used to identify the front and back of the pattern pieces. A single notch represents the front while a double notch represents the back. Be sure to transfer all notches from the pattern pieces to the fabric pieces by either clipping with scissors or marking with a fabric pen.

Overlay: An overlay is a piece of fabric that is placed on top of another piece for decoration or added interest. It can be made from lace, tulle, or other lightweight fabrics.

Pin Tuck: A decorative fold of fabric that is sewn in place with a row of stitching. It can be used to add texture and interest to most  garments.

Piping: A narrow piece of bias-cut fabric folded over a cord and inserted into the seam between the edge and facing of a garment as a decorative trim.

Placket: The overlapping fabric that covers an opening in a garment and supports or hides the closures. Usually a faced strip of fabric that houses either the buttons or buttonholes on a closure.

Raw Edge: The raw edge refers to the unfinished edge of a piece of fabric. Woven fabrics can be prone to fraying and need to be finished with a hem or another type of edge treatment.

Right Side: The side of the fabric that is intended to be visible on the finished garment. It can often be identified by its print or texture.

Seam Allowance: The seam allowance refers to the amount of fabric between the seam line and the raw edge of the fabric.

Selvage: An edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unravelling.

Scant Seam Allowance: A seam allowance sewn slightly smaller, typically no more than 1/16” or 0.15 cm smaller than the listed measurement. For example, if the pattern states to sew a scant 3/8” or 1 cm seam allowance, the stitch would be sewn 5/16” or 0.8 cm from the raw edge.

Stay-stitch: A  line of stitching used to stabilize fabric cut on the bias or on a curve. It is typically sewn with a scant seam allowance to  ensure the fabric holds its shape at the intended seam line.

Stitch in the Ditch: Stitching right in the seam line or in the space between the fabrics in a seam.

Stretch-stitch: A type of stitch used for stretchy fabrics that allows for some give in the seam. It is often used in activewear, swimwear, and other garments that require a lot of movement.

Tack: A way to hold fabric in place by sewing just a few stitches. Tacking works well anywhere seams need to match.

Topstitch: A visible line of stitching on the right side of the fabric. It is often used for decorative purposes or to reinforce seams.

Trim: 1. An additional decoration, typically along the edges of and in contrasting color or material. Examples: piping, lace, ruffles, ribbon, etc... 2. Cutting off excess fabric in order to neaten it.

Understitch: A  line of stitching that is sewn on the facing/lining side of a garment to help it lie flat and prevent it from rolling to the outside. It is often used on necklines, armholes, and other areas where a clean finish is desired. It is recommended to trim the seam allowance and clip any curve and the press the seam allowance and seam toward the facing/lining before stitching.

Woven Fabric: Woven fabric is formed from two different yarns or threads which are interconnected with one another. The threads are divided into two categories- The vertical thread is called warp thread, while the horizontal thread is called weft thread.

Wrong Side: The side of the fabric that is not intended to be visible in the finished garment. It can often be identified by its lack of print or texture.

Zigzag Stitch: A stitch that creates a zigzag pattern. It is often used for finishing seams, applique, or attaching elastic. The width and length of the zigzag can be adjusted depending on the desired effect.