How to Add Horsehair Braid to Your Hem for a Professional Finish

Adding horsehair braid to the hem of your garments is a great way to create structure, volume, and a professional finish, particularly in skirts, dresses, and gowns. This lightweight, flexible mesh has long been a go-to material for giving hems a structured, polished look. Whether you're making a dramatic evening gown, a flowy summer dress, or adding flair to a costume, horsehair braid can take your design to the next level.

In this blog, we'll walk you through the process of adding horsehair braid to your hem to achieve a flawless, professional look.

What is Horsehair Braid?

Horsehair braid is a woven, crinoline-like trim made from polyester, nylon, or a blend of synthetic fibers. While it originally got its name from being made out of horsehair in the past, today’s versions are synthetic but still offer the same stiff, yet flexible, quality. It’s often used to add body, shape, and stiffness to hems without adding weight.

When and Why Use Horsehair Braid?

Horsehair braid is commonly used in:

• Formalwear: To give body to the hems of skirts, dresses, and gowns.
• Costumes: For added volume and structure in costume pieces.
• Flared or Circle Skirts: To maintain the flare and flow of fabric without needing multiple layers of tulle or heavy fabrics.

It works particularly well with fabrics like silk, chiffon, tulle, organza, and even heavier fabrics like satin.

Materials You Will Need:

• Horsehair braid (available in various widths, typically ranging from ½ inch to 3 inches)
• Your garment or fabric with a hem ready to be sewn
• Matching thread
• Pins or fabric clips
• A hand-sewing needle (optional)
• Scissors
• Sewing machine

Step-by-Step Guide to Adding Horsehair Braid

1. Prepare Your Hem

Before attaching horsehair braid, make sure your garment’s hem is properly prepared:

• Trim the excess fabric if necessary, so the hem is even and ready for finishing.
• For a narrow hem, press the raw edge up by about ¼ inch.
• For a wider hem, press up by 1 inch or more, depending on your desired hem width. You can attach the horsehair braid directly to the raw edge, or to the folded edge for a cleaner finish.

2. Measure and Cut the Horsehair Braid

• Measure the circumference of your hem and cut your horsehair braid to match this length.
• Overlap the ends by about ½ inch to avoid a gap in the hem. If your horsehair braid has a built-in ribbon edge, you can remove a small section from each end so the ribbon overlaps more seamlessly.

3. Sew the Ends of the Horsehair Braid

• To join the ends of the horsehair braid, overlap them by ½ inch and use a zigzag stitch to secure the ends together. This will create a continuous loop of horsehair braid for a smooth hem.
• If the braid has a wire inside the edge, carefully remove it from the overlapping section before sewing.

4. Pin the Horsehair Braid to the Hem

• With the right side of the fabric facing up, pin the top edge of the horsehair braid to the raw edge of the hem. The braid should be aligned with the edge of the fabric, not extending beyond it.
• Use pins or fabric clips to secure the horsehair braid in place. If the fabric is delicate or slippery, clips may be easier to use than pins.

5. Sew the Horsehair Braid to the Hem

• Using a straight stitch, sew the horsehair braid to the hem about ¼ inch from the raw edge.
• As you sew, ensure the braid lies flat against the fabric without puckering or stretching. It’s important to ease the fabric around curves to avoid distortion.

6. Turn the Hem and Press

• After attaching the horsehair braid, fold the hem up to the inside of the garment, encasing the braid. This will hide the raw edge of the fabric and give the hem a clean, professional look.
• Press the hem in place, ensuring the braid lies smoothly inside.

7. Topstitch or Hand Sew the Hem in Place

Now you have two options to secure the hem:

• Topstitch the hem by machine: For a quicker finish, you can topstitch the hem in place with a straight or narrow zigzag stitch, sewing close to the top edge of the hem. This method is visible from the outside, so use matching thread for a polished look.
• Hand-sew the hem: If you prefer a more invisible finish, you can use a blind hem stitch by hand. This will hide the stitching from the outside of the garment while still securing the hem in place.

8. Press the Final Hem

• Once the hem is sewn in place, give the entire hem a final press to set it. If working with delicate fabrics like satin or chiffon, use a pressing cloth to prevent shine or damage.

Pro Tips for Working with Horsehair Braid:

• For a smoother finish, steam the horsehair braid gently to remove any wrinkles or kinks before sewing it into the hem.
• Curved hems can be tricky, but the horsehair braid is flexible enough to shape around curves. For tighter curves, you may need to make small snips along the edge of the braid to help it bend smoothly.
• Different widths of horsehair braid will give different results: narrow braid will add subtle body, while wider braid will create a more dramatic flare.

 

 

Final Thoughts

Adding horsehair braid to your hem is a simple technique that can dramatically enhance the look and movement of your garment. Whether you're creating an evening gown with a sweeping skirt or giving a casual dress more structure, this method will give your hems a professional, finished look. With these steps and tips, you'll master the art of sewing horsehair braid and elevate your sewing projects!

Happy sewing!